Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Taiwanese-style coffee and breakfast

The heat of the sun is already making its presence felt on this sunny morning in Taipei. I'm eating at a restaurant around the corner from my hostel which specializes in breakfast (apparently there are many such restaurants here). I've gotten on pretty good terms with the cook, who takes orders while flipping eggs and pieces of bacon on the grill. She is a short middle-aged woman. I can't see most of her face because it's covered with a hygienic mask, but I imagine by the way her eyes squint that she is smiling when I talk to her. The lady has pretty much figured out how to talk to foreigners with the least amount of stress on either side. This is an example of our conversation (in Chinese, of course).
Me: I want to eat egg.
Her: Egg sandwich? You want bacon?
Me: Correct. (In Chinese you don't say 'yes'. You say correct.)
Her: You drink something?
Me: One cup of coffee.
Her: Hot? Iced?
Me: Iced.
Her: Small? Big?
Me: Big
Her: You eat here?
Me: Correct.
The drink woman brings me a coffee, which is sweet and has some kind of flavored cream. At first this annoyed me (I usually like my coffee black) but now I've grown to like it.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

When eggs are broken, make an omelette

My experiences in the past few days have reminded me an important lesson when traveling: whatever can go wrong will go wrong. Sometimes life just throws you some curveballs, and there's nothing you can do but take it with a grain of salt.
For example, the morning of my flight there was a worker's strike at Charles de Gaulle airport leading to a delay of 30 minutes, as it were. I had a connecting flight in Vienna, and despite the kindly German lady sitting next to me who assured me that I would catch the connecting flight (to leave 45 minutes after the ours landed), I couln't help but worry about catching that flight.
Apparently I wasn't the only one; scores of other people had connecting flights too, so when we got to Vienna there were so many people running through the airport (with bags in tow) it kind of looked like an Olympic race (call it the 600-meter Airportathlon). I vowed to come out at the top and overtook one man who was going in my direction. We got to the gate, but alas, too late; the plane had already taken off. Even though I won, I still lost. It turns out we were both going to Taipei. The man and I went to the service counter, where we got tickets for our next flight nine hours later to...Bangkok (no connecting flights).
To make a long story short, my trip ended up taking 29 hours instead of 18, I arrived at my hostel at about 11pm on Tuesday night, and they forgot to send my luggage. I did walk around aimlessly in Vienna for about two hours and ordered some bratwurst ("ah, you meen brAATvoorst," the vendor had said).
Back to the luggage, I just got it back today. I had bought some underwear and socks in the meantime, but you can imagine how stinky (and sticky) my khakis and hawaiian shirt were getting. Oh what a joy to put on a clean t-shirt, some sandals, and shorts! Even though, after about 30 seconds I was sweaty again.
I confirm. It is hot and humid here. All my low-impact rules (try not to use too many plastic bottles, don't use air con) have gone out the window so that I can keep cool. And despite my ex-colleague's (Christine, are you reading this?) concern about old air-conditioner's filters which, according to her, are 'breeding grounds for bacteria,' I'm still using the AC in my room. In the daytime, it's 36 degrees celsius outside (96 degrees fahrenheit in the shade).
For now I'm living in a hostel which somewhat reminds me of the cheap hotel Tony Leung stays at in 2046 (except grimier, and without the hot actresses). I still have a bunch of stuff to do, like register for classes, get a resident card, find an apartment, and stuff... But for now I think I'll just go out and eat some jiaozi (dumplings) at the yeshi (night market). Mmmmm

Monday, August 18, 2008

This is it!

OK, I'm leaving in a few hours...it's Monday morning and I don't feel quite awake yet. In one day I'll be in Taipei!

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Six days and counting...


Going to the Taipei Representation Office to get my visa, cancelling telephone, internet, and electricity, moving, saying goodbye to friends. The past few weeks have not been easy, and now I'm getting ready for the big jump -- actually going to Taiwan. In a way I don't really feel like this is really happening. It's such an abstract idea-- in one week I will be 6,000 miles (almost 10,000km) away. I guess I'll believe it when I'm on the plane.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Background

A number of people have sent emails asking me what I am going to do in Taiwan. The short answer is: to study Mandarin Chinese. But to really answer that question, I have to give some background.
Two years ago, when I came back from Japan, I enrolled into Inalco, the national university for Oriental languages and culture, to study Chinese. Why Chinese, and not Japanese, you say? And why Chinese in France?
Well, I already spoke conversational Japanese, so I figured why not learn another language. Plus, I reasoned that Japanese characters are based on Chinese ones, so I already had a head start in the language.
I know now that that idea is not entirely correct. While it is true that Japanese characters are based on Chinese ones, many have changed their meaning in the same way that modern English has adopted new meanings for French words that became part of the English language hundreds of years ago. One that comes to mind is sensible, in English meaning logical or reasonable. In French it means sensitive. In Japanese, the characters showing a hand and a paper mean letter (as in a letter that you send someone). In Chinese the same two characters mean toilet paper. So that's the answer to the first question.
My friend Quint, with whom I taught English in Japan, asked me why I was learning Chinese in France. It's a good question, and it should be noted that the person asking has a Master's degree in teaching English as a foreign language. He knows that the best way to learn a language is to be in the country where that language is spoken. Most people would agree. But there is a corollary to that statement which many people are unaware of. In addition to living in a foreign country, the person wishing to speak the foreign language also needs instruction. Otherwise he ends up learning a type of pidgin language which, while allowing him to get what he needs, prevents him from being able to go beyond a basic survival level.
In my time in Japan, the foreigners who spoke the best Japanese were people who had studied it in universities in their home countries before going to Japan. Many of them were not from English-speaking countries and some could not speak English, giving them further incentive to learn Japanese. And some of them were-- you guessed it-- foreign exchange students who were there thanks to government scholarships.
So there you have it. That's why I'm going to Taiwan.